Holiday / Continual Professional Development
To keep our qualification valid as instructors we all need to keep active at what we teach at our own personal level.
This means as part of our job we have to train and develop by going climbing paddling caving etc. I know, its a hard life!
Sat evening- Slate Climbing, Bus Stop Quarry did Fool’s Gold (E1 5c), Solstice (HVS 5a), Equinox (VS 4c) with Claudia RA’s newest member of staff. Claudia loves her climbing a boating and lives in Leicester, you will see her in the lakes and other areas from time to time when RA runs events for people closer to where she lives.
Sunday - Anglesea, Castle Helen did Blanco (HVS 4c,5a), A State of Saturation (no stars in guide but a bit of a brilliant route moving out right from below the crux of Blanco. If yo haven’t done it mark it down as one to do. The final groove looks fearsome but is actually straightforward) (HVS 5a, 5a) Then we did the last pitch of NW Passage (E1 5b) awesome climb, worth all its stars.
Monday, staff training with Sally - Clogwyn Y Grochan we did Spectre (HVS 4c, 5a, 5a, 4b), Hangover (E1 5a,5b) and Brant Direct (HVS 5a) in the morning the went Kayaking on the Tryweryn in the afternoon.
Tuesday, more staff CDP with sally, Gogarth was our crag of choice this time, we climbed on the main cliff, did Gogarth (E1 4b, 5a, 4c, 4b, 5b) and Scavenger (HVS 4c, 5a, 4a).
Wednesday - Part of my work with the AMI is to build closer relationships with the outdoor trade. Today I popped over to DMM to chat through some possibilities about the ways that AMI and DMM can work closer together with more projects like the outdoor show in the future.
Then to the slate after Sally Chris and John finished work. We headed to the seamstress slab area, I lead up Slug Club Special (E4 6a) down climbed it from the crux and borrowed a pair of tighter shoes then got on with it, Sal cruised Seamstress (VS 4c) then I finished of up Seams the Same (E1 5b) to a lovely sunset.
Thursday, Partnered up with John through the day then wet up with the rest in the evening. John and I headed up to Dinas Comlech and did Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c), Memory Lane (E3 5c) and The Thing (E2 5c, 4c). A little sleep under the boulders and then up to the Grochan, Sal lead up then I did SS special (E2 5b) Phantom Rib (VS 4b, 4c, 4b). The day ended with Pizza ‘n’ a pint.
Friday - Back to Gogarth the sun!, this time to the Wen Slab area. Tim and I abed down and soon found the belay ledge we had got to was out of the sun a a little chilly in our shorts and t shirts so instead of waiting for a couple to finnish on Britomartis we quested up a wall on the R and headed back to the sun. After Layering up we headed back down and did Britomartis (HVS 4c) once the team had cleared the route. The Wen slab then came into the sun so over to the other rap point and down to do Quartz Icicle (E2 5b, 5b), this is a route that I have had my eye on since 2001 when I spotted it from Dream of White Horses (the famous HVS), a route that just make you wanna whoop and whistle as you climb.
It turned time to head to meet Sally and the others in the pass so bags packed and running shoes on saw Tim and I heading like the wind to Carreg Wastad, After doing Zangorilla (E3 6a) we headed to Jerry’s Roof and fell onto the bouldering mats a few times.
Not sure if I can top this week of climbing. Genuinely nice people, great weather and fond memories.
Sat & Sunday - I am running an MIA trainee workshop for the AMI. This is a workshop for people who are training towards their MIA assessment.
Monday - down at a School climbing wall who I am technical advising for.
POSTED: 14th April 2010
BY: Dan
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Staff @ Play