BMC Technical Committee Meeting

This committee meets 4 times a year on a monday evening at the BMC offices in Manchester.

The widely recognized BMC belay device poster is due for a fresh look and re print. This is a request to have a look at the poster and report back if you have any ideas on anything you think needs to be added or changed.

Neville McMillan has now stepped down from the UIAA Safety Commission and has handed over to Rob Foster. Neville has been helping devise standards on climbing and mountaineering equipment for over 17 years. A huge thanks needs to go out to him for his commitment and dedication to improving standards and safety within climbing.

Neville’s final efforts have been in the area of rope diameter the new rope standards will state that the diameter will have to be marked and must be within + or - 0.3mm of what is stated at point of sale. This change will help ensure users have the ability to match their belay device with their rope.

Crampon standards will be published in May this year now they have finished debating the co efficient of friction with relative angles that the points can be used at on UIAA standard ice.

Energy absorption standards for via ferrata equipment is to be revised so that the strength of the stitching will withstand a user error and will not blow if pulled in the wrong direction. Also the use of these fall arrest devices with regards to the use for children and small adults. Part of this research is to look into the issues by minors taking dynamic falls in a harness and what internal damage can be created.

The BMC‘s Technical Committee is an accumulation of experts from the climbing world. Members consist of Metallurgists, Engineers, Manufacturers, and the likes. I stand on the committee as a technical expert from an instructional / user point of view. The committee is a vital part of testing faulty equipment and creating and enhancing the UIAA and EN standards on equipment for climbing.

This gathering of experts also use their knowledge for the various BMC technical publications, and provide independent advice on equipment.

I have voluntary represented the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) on this committee for the past 4 years.

POSTED: 17th January 2011
BY: Dan
CATEGORIES: Technical Courses