Monthly Archives: May 2010
← Older postsStaff Training
Kat, Graham and I headed up to Gimmer Crag for a little multi pitch staff training and induction.
We Climbed…
Kipling Groove – HVS 4c, 5a
Whit’s End Direct – E1 5b
Springbank – E2 5c
Gimmer String – E1 4c, 4c, 5b
The Crack – VS 4c, 4c, 4c
Then back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a pint.
Residential Course
This week we have been running a residential for two local primary schools who joined together for the week.
We stayed at Rydal Hall in the bunkhouse
During the week we explored mines, climbed rocks, ghyll scrambled, canoed on Windermere,
Mark, our chef cooked for the team during the week, It was decided that his sticky toffee pudding was better than Cartmel sticky toffee and the team loved the Banana’s wrapped in Bacon.
Kat from Aqueous came along to film for the week, she will produce a video for everyone, ill post a shortened version when it is ready.
Thanks to Mike Margeson, Hazel Johnson, Graham Boistelle, Mark Lunn and Katrina (The RA instructors) for making the week happen, more thanks to the staff who came along on the week.
Looking forward to next year.
An Evening on Castle Rock
After work I took Graham to Castle Rock, we climbed…
North Crag Eliminate – E1 5a, 5a, 5b
Gazebo – HVS 5a
Overhanging Bastion – VS 4a, 4b, 5a
Green Eggs and Ham – E1 5c
Mountain Biking
Top ride with James, Ant, Liz, Soupie, and Sally.
From Torver over to the Duddon, round the back of Caw and down to the New Field for a pint of orrange before back over the Walner Scar road to then jumped into Coniston Water.
Tea and Cake and home for a BBQ.
Dow Crag – Pink Panther
After a coffee and a good old yarn Helen Dudley and I finally got to the Goats water only to end up in it after a rather warm walk!
Sally and Ant found us drying off, they climbed Eliminate A then went for tea and cakes.
We did Catacomb E1, 5a, 5a, 5b then Pink Panther E2 5c.
Pink Panther is a route I have been avoiding since I saw Jon Adams on it back in 1997 when I was doing Leopard’s Crawl. The route description “adequate protection” and a word from Jon has played on me for a while and I have always had a reason not to climb it.
Happy with that lead ! did it clean and wondered what I had been fussing about.
Goat Crag – Borrowdale
Praying Mantis was our route of choice today, another Hard Rock tick.
We replaced the Ab Tat with new rope and a ring then headed to Quayfoot Buttress and climbed Mandrake with Hazel HVS 5a.
Jean Jeanie – Trowbarrow
Great little evening on the crag. Claudia was on her way to do a weeks work in Scotland and popped to the Lakes on her way past.
Zip Line Inspection
Today I headed over to inspect a Zip Line before we use it with one of our larger courses this year.
I was pleased to see that they had removed a suspect tree from the system…
Last year we did not use it due to concerns I had, its great to see recommendations taken forward and acted upon.
Cumbria Bolt Fund – update e-mail
Current Completed Work
Thanks to 2 weekends then followup work there are now a number of lines completely re bolted at St Bees Head and Mill Side with also a new Abseil Station at Sargentman Crag Slabs.
Equipment
The Cumbria Bolt fund now owns 3 complete sets of kit to go out bolting. Once the oder comes through from Lyon Equipment (some of the kit they are even giving us) we will have 3 sets to access the rock. This will increase safety and save you all getting your personal kit trashed. Oh and there are a few seats on order to increase comfort too!
New Bolts
We have won £1500 in the BMC’s bolt fund bid, the bolts are on order and will be with us hopefully by next week. Ill get the bolts for St Bees over to the team as soon as I can once they get here, how are you doing for resin St Bees Team?
There is also an order for chain, d rings, more bolts, resin etc that will be with us next week.
Core Drilling Bit
The new core drilling bits are on there way from America so we should have a set ready for replacing those crucial bolts where there is nowhere where the bolt can go except the original hole. Thrang is high on the list for the first place to use the bit!
Cathedral
I am in the process of righting the risk assessments, plans of work and procedures for the National Trust. They require it for one reason or another! Once this has been approved we can get down there and make a start. We are looking to bolt the top of the crag in the process as part of the agreement, this will reduce the wear on the trees at the top and also be useful for groups.
Humphrey Head
James Bumbey is on the case with agreeing access with the land owners. Once he has made contact and an agreement is in place then Peter Latimer will jump on the case with the RSPB and Natural England. The desire is to have access in place for when the bird ban is lifted.
Scout Scar
James Bumbey working on access. No bolting just yet.
Ropes Access Training
As we are working at height we should be adopting the methods used by industrial ropes access workers. Some training has been given on sight during bolt workshops however to cover this issue in detail and ensure we are all working safely Alex Showell has offered to run some access training for Active Bolters. Alex and I will run the event, teaching people how to rig and work off 2 ropes and what to do when it all goes wrong. If you are interested in this then please get in touch. Date to be arranged.
Methods of Work
Due to the lack of rain the dust is staying on the crags and not being washed away, I have bought a hand brush for each set of kit to help with keeping people on the crag after a bolting session.
Church Beck
The Church Beck user group have decided that there is a need to bolt church beck for the use of groups after a crucial belay disappeared. They have asked if it is possible for CBF to do the work. We have agreed with the proviso of a heathy donation to the fund.
Future Bolting Date in S Lakes
I will be back at Mill Side on Sunday 23rd May. Let me know if you can make it. I hope to be able to bolt the rest of the crag and clean up leaving the place totally finished apart from the extra chain that needs to go in when it arrives.
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John Beatty
After seeing a slide show by John Beatty at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival I was hooked on his work.
He had 4 slide projectors glowing and merging onto one screen to produce a mix of images that where just outstanding.
Have a look at this video…
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiB0L7nothc]
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