Monthly Archives: April 2010

Bolting @ Mill Side

So our bolting road trip continued to a local crag on the Sunday, slightly less people but shorter holes and less training to do.

We got lots done here, there are now 7 lines that are re equipped and safe to climb again with another couple on there way. Soon we should have the whole crag complete.

We headed back on the Monday night too.

Tom is an active climber and heads up the route setting at Kendal Wall,

St Bees Bolting

Well Back to St Bees today to train some more locals in the fine art of bolting. There was a great turn out with 8 people equipped with the knowledge.

Here is a shot of the type if thing we are replacing, interesting to see just how 20 years next to the sea can effect a steel carabiner!!!

There are now 7 new lower offs and 3 completed lines with another 6 lines drilled and on there way to completion, over the next couple of months there should be enough climbs re-equiped to make it worth a visit.

BBC Radio Cumbria & Cumbria Bolt Fund

As you know I head up the voluntary role of Cumbria Bolt Fund Chair, the equipment & bolts are funded by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club, BMC, Lyon Equipment, and other various clubs and private donations.

Tonight, Alex from High Line Vision and myself headed up to Mill Side with Martin, BBC Radio Cumbria’s reporter, to talk about the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund.

If you see this in time listen to the interview on the 22nd April between 7 and 9 in the morning.

If you miss it go to the website and use the listen again feature.

Martin was keen to get up to the action and see what we do first hand.

Click here for the Audio bolts

Lessons Outside Today

Please see below a preview of an article which will appear in the next copy of the County Council Magazine Your Cumbria.

Real Adventure provides technical support for schools to be able to establish as an adventure learning school.

Click the link below.

p16-17

Holiday / Continual Professional Development

To keep our qualification valid as instructors we all need to keep active at what we teach at our own personal level.

This means as part of our job we have to train and develop by going climbing paddling caving etc. I know, its a hard life!

Sat evening- Slate Climbing, Bus Stop Quarry did Fool’s Gold (E1 5c), Solstice (HVS 5a), Equinox (VS 4c) with Claudia RA’s newest member of staff. Claudia loves her climbing a boating and lives in Leicester, you will see her in the lakes and other areas from time to time when RA runs events for people closer to where she lives.

Sunday – Anglesea, Castle Helen did Blanco (HVS 4c,5a), A State of Saturation (no stars in guide but a bit of a brilliant route moving out right from below the crux of Blanco. If yo haven’t done it mark it down as one to do. The final groove looks fearsome but is actually straightforward) (HVS 5a, 5a) Then we did the last pitch of NW Passage (E1 5b) awesome climb, worth all its stars.

Monday, staff training with Sally – Clogwyn Y Grochan we did Spectre (HVS 4c, 5a, 5a, 4b), Hangover (E1 5a,5b) and Brant Direct (HVS 5a) in the morning the went Kayaking on the Tryweryn in the afternoon.

Tuesday, more staff CDP with sally, Gogarth was our crag of choice this time, we climbed on the main cliff, did Gogarth (E1 4b, 5a, 4c, 4b, 5b)  and Scavenger (HVS 4c, 5a, 4a).

Wednesday – Part of my work with the AMI is to build closer relationships with the outdoor trade. Today I popped over to DMM to chat through some possibilities about the ways that AMI and DMM can work closer together with more projects like the outdoor show in the future.

Then to the slate after Sally Chris and John finished work. We headed to the seamstress slab area, I lead up Slug Club Special (E4 6a) down climbed it from the crux and borrowed a pair of tighter shoes then got on with it, Sal cruised Seamstress (VS 4c) then I finished of up Seams the Same (E1 5b) to a lovely sunset.

Thursday, Partnered up with John through the day then wet up with the rest in the evening. John and I headed up to Dinas Comlech and did Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c), Memory Lane (E3 5c) and The Thing (E2 5c, 4c). A little sleep under the boulders and then up to the Grochan, Sal lead up then I did SS special (E2 5b) Phantom Rib (VS 4b, 4c, 4b). The day ended with Pizza ‘n’ a pint.

Friday – Back to Gogarth the sun!, this time to the Wen Slab area. Tim and I abed down and soon found the belay ledge we had got to was out of the sun a a little chilly in our shorts and t shirts so instead of waiting for a couple to finnish on Britomartis we quested up a wall on the R and headed back to the sun. After Layering up we headed back down and did Britomartis (HVS 4c) once the team had cleared the route. The Wen slab then came into the sun so over to the other rap point and down to do Quartz Icicle (E2 5b, 5b), this is a route that I have had my eye on since 2001 when I spotted it from Dream of White Horses (the famous HVS), a route that just make you wanna whoop and  whistle as you climb.

It turned time to head to meet Sally and the others in the pass so bags packed and running shoes on saw Tim and I heading like the wind to Carreg Wastad, After doing Zangorilla (E3 6a) we headed to Jerry’s Roof and fell onto the bouldering mats a few times.

Not sure if I can top this week of climbing. Genuinely nice people, great weather and fond memories.

Sat & Sunday – I am running an MIA trainee workshop for the AMI. This is a workshop for people who are training towards their MIA assessment.

Monday – down at a School climbing wall who I am technical advising for.

Salford Youth Council

This is the team of young people who have chosen to be involved with the Youth Councils. They where staying at Trafford Hall over the weekend and had a full on programme of training towards the youth council work they are doing.

We took them on a team building and break from workshops day climbing at Irby Quarry only 30 min drive from the accommodation.

A great little Quarry perfect for people who have never climbed on rock before.

Cadet Adventure Week

This week we have had a heard of 30 cadets staying near Lancaster, everyone has been on the hill, up a gorge, climbing at an indoor wall, canoeing, kayaking, and raft building.

It has been fantastic to see peoples skills develop in the different activities, there was some true talent amongst them.

Next year we are running the week up in Scotland with 2 days on the winter hills and 2 days canoeing down the Spay with a day in teh middle for a spot of mountain biking and rock climbing.

Cumbria Bolt Fund Workshop – St Bees

I was elected chair of the Cumbria Bolt Fund in 2008. My job as chair is to raise funds, acquire bolts and equipment, co-ordinate the group to secure access to the crags for bolting and to equip people with the skills to use the bolting equipment to replace bolts throughout the lakes and surrounding areas.

The workshop consisted of a training event in the morning and many lower offs being replaced in the afternoon. We have left a rope linking the lower off together so if you end up at St Bees to climb please leave these in place.

For more information on the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund and bolting click here.

Mountain Leader Assessment

29th March to 3rd April 2010

Mike Margeson and I run all of the Lakeside YMCA’s MLTE courses.

Mike ran the first 2 days of the course and then I headed out into the fresh snow for the expedition element of the assessment.

We left the night nav until the second night due to the quantity of snow.

Sprinkling Tarn and Scar Lathing provided 2 nights under the stars with 3 great mountain days in and around the central fells.

The 4 people on assessment had a really good time and learnt as well as being assessed.

If you are looking to do an ML or SPA course please get in touch for dates and costs.